Deep Calls Unto Deep
"In a Mexican-Mayan spiritual sense, when I stepped into those cenotes... I wasn't just exploring. I was back where I belong."—Unknown
Swimming in the underground rivers at Xcaret
October 9th, 2025
📍Cancún, Q. Roo, Mexico 🇲🇽
¡Saludos desde el desierto!
Anyone who knows me well knows I am a water baby. I love the water! From praying next to it, rafting on it, diving in it, or dancing in it, my soul craves water. So, it will come as no surprise to you that swimming in the underground rivers of Xcaret and the cenotes of Tulúm were incredible experiences for me.
On Monday, we ventured out by rental car to explore the "Disney Land" of natural water parks. The story of Xcaret began in 1984 when architect Miguel Quintana Pali purchased land in Riviera Maya to build his home, but discovered beautiful cenotes and underground rivers instead. Partnering with the Constandse brothers, he decided to create Xcaret Park to share these natural wonders, which opened in December 1990 and has grown into a leader in sustainable, culturally rich tourism.
While I’m very sorry that my other friend couldn’t join me on this birthday trip, my favorite part of the whole experience was the 90-minute floats down each of Xcaret’s underground rivers, which she wouldn’t have been able to join us for. Wearing the provided pink life jackets, my friend Alac and I gently meandered down the current, gliding effortlessly through the clear waters as we floated on our backs past waterfalls, bats, and natural skylights.
Xcaret is very touristy, but its natural wonders, attention to guest experience (from its robust infrastructure to its friendly and caring staff), and commitment to sustainability make this one tourist hotspot worth the price and a return visit.
After spending the day poolside on Tuesday, recovering from Xcaret, we traveled south to Tulúm on Wednesday to swim in the cenotes and cross another item off my 2025 travel bucket list.
Did you know that cenotes are natural freshwater sinkholes and underground cave systems formed when limestone collapses? They serve as both sacred sites and freshwater sources for the Maya. I was lucky enough to swim in the Cenotes Choo-Ha and Tankach-Ha.
It was amazing to play in these cold but crystal-clear waters among rock formations and cavern wildlife. The bats, I could understand. But finding fish and crabs in these underground holes? Mind-blowing.
I especially loved jumping off the highest platform of the second cenote, high enough that I could watch the bats hanging from the ceiling of the cave. Both cenotes were affordable, offered decent-enough cold showers, toilets, and life jackets if desired. No waits, and no reservations required.
One thing that really stood out to me was the color difference between the two. In Choo-Ha, not only was it shallower, but the water was a greener color. The water was just as clear at Tanhkach-Ha, but this one was deeper, colder, and much bluer. It was there that I was jumping off the high dive platform.
As I was swimming over the 45' depth or walking the "tightrope" above the abyss, I kept recalling the verse in the Psalms that so often comes to my mind at the prayer waterfall, "Deep calls unto deep… all your waves and breakers have swept over me." Swimming these conotes felt like being swept over by awe. The depths of my soul came alive, and it felt incredible to be in the Presence of God in the beauty of this underground marvel.
Deep calls to deep, indeed.
As much as I can't wait to return to the Yucatán and swim in many more cenotes, what was at the top of my bucket list for Tulum was dining in the architectural masterpiece that is the boutique treetop hotel of Azulik. Due to a steep drop in tourism and it being off-season, we had the place mostly to ourselves. After a lovely omakase-style birthday dinner (which in Japanese means a dining experience where you "leave it up to the chef" to curate a multi-course meal using seasonal, high-quality ingredients) and a birthday drink in the bird nests, I can't wait to return as a guest to stay in one of their treetop huts.
It will be back very soon. Until then, I'm headed back to Salida tomorrow to gather all of my camping gear and hit the road for Arizona. My next letter will be from the eremos.
With Love,
Jennifer
Loving how 44 looks on me in this obligatory bathroom selfie :)
P.S.—I’d love to hear from YOU! Rather than emailing me or dropping me a DM, please post a comment below 👇
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